Any help is appreciated!Įdit: All I plan on powering with my house battery is my maxxfan, a 12v and usb outlet, and possibly my lights because as of today they don’t work connected to the original van wiring (don’t know why, they worked yesterday). I’m pretty much a total noob at anything electrical and I’m learning as I’m going and want to be safe about all of this so take it easy on me please. There are three types of battery isolators out there: solenoid battery isolators, solid state battery isolators, and voltage-sensing relays (or smart. But when he explained the solenoid, it included an ignition relay, a relay delay, and a circuit breaker. 1999 Ford F150 Fuse Box Diagram Under Hood. With the isolator all I thought I had to do was wire both the positives and ground the negative and I’m good. Since there is no response when I turn the key, I would think the problem is between the battery and the.
I was planning on installing a smart isolator like this but then the other day I went to pick up lights from an RV store and the guy working went on a rant about how all I need is a Cole Herse solenoid. Your starting batteries could become drained if the house batteries are discharged. Bottom sketch I think is what you are describing. Top sketch is isolator wired for complete battery isolation.
You will not be getting complete isolation that way. These RV battery disconnect switches are designed to work with a number of popular RV models, including Holiday Rambler, Monaco Coach, Fleetwood, REV RV, Tiffin, and American Coach. If I read yu right you will be using only 1/2 of the isolator. We carry replacement RV battery isolator switches and disconnect switches to quickly and safely disconnect your various appliances from battery power. I have a 80ah house battery currently wired directly to my van battery (not smart I know, it’s just been to power my maxxfan). Motorhome battery disconnect relays are a simple way to conserve your battery’s power when the vehicle won’t be in use for several weeks at a time. Ive really been struggling in my research for my van electrical system. I've also toyed with the idea of getting the second alternator put in, and set it up to only charge the camper (but this gets complicated to do right and you run the risk of frying the 2nd alternator if you disconnect the 'house' while the truck is running - so I may or may not do that.I’ll try to keep it short. Anyone have any suggestions as to a good/simple place under the hood to get that from? The isolator in my Lance camper died, so I am going to change to the truck mounted solenoid instead. I'm not sure how they all work, but the setup that seems best to me is the plain high-current capable solenoids mounted on the firewall (they fail open, can handle up to 100 amps, and seem to be long lasting), and simply need a lead from a 'key-on' circuit from the truck. The 'intelligent' design folks put the relay down below the starter battery so the battery has to be removed to service or check the relay. DEWINNER 12V 140Amp Dual Battery Isolator Kit Manual/Auto Modes VSR-Voltage Sensitive Relay Kit, with LED Screen, Voltage Display, Designed for ATV, UTV, Boat, RV, Camper 5 Wheel Off-road Vehicle. My Ford OEM one lasted less than a year, in spite of it being rated for 100 amps. Unfortunately there's very little room to get at the solenoid.
It's the solenoid on the left as your looking at the two solenoids. The only way to access the solenoid is to remove the front cover of the chassis electrical box and then remove the circuit breaker panel. Some of the battery isolators/relays suffer from voltage drop and fail closed versus open, and the vary in how dependable they are. Relay type isolators do fail and contacts do burn. There is a chassis electrical box on the left hand side of the compartment. I agree, I'd prefer to make my own choices about the current needs and how it is mounted up and even hooked in to the alternator.
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